Mallory and Irvine

What happened to Mallory & Irvine – A Synopsis

Table of Contents
Introduction
June 5, 1924
June 6, 1924
June 7, 1924
– Comments on Mallory’s note to Noel
– Comments on Mallory’s note to Odell
– Some notes on the oxygen question
– Some notes on Mallory’s equipment list – The sleeping bag issue		June 8, 1924
– Mallory & Irvine’s ascent to 8500 m/28,000 ft.
– Mallory & Irvine’s ascent beyond 8500 m/28,000 ft.
– Climbing the Second Step – Is the Mystery finally solved?
Beyond the Second Step – Hypotheses & Considerations
Where is Andrew Irvine?
Conclusions
Expedition Waste

The following reconstruction of the events surrounding Mallory and Irvine’s summit attempt in 1924 is
the combined result of four search expeditions to Mount Everest (in 1999, 2001, and 2010, 2011) and
associated research. The timeline was compiled from the following sources:

  • Carr, H.R.C., The Irvine Diaries: Andrew Irvine and the Enigma of Everest, 1924, Reading: Gastons-West Col Publications, 1979 (Irvine)
  • Holzel, T. & Salkeld, A., The Mystery of Mallory and Irvine, London: Jonathan Cape, 1986 (Holzel/Salkeld)
  • Norton, Col. E.F., “The Mount Everest Dispatches”, Alpine Journal, vol. 36, No. 229, 1924 (Norton 1)
  • _____, “The Climb with Mr. Somervell to 28,000 ft.”, Alpine Journal, 36, 229, 1924 (Norton 2)
  • _____, “The Problem of Mount Everest”, A.J., 37, 230, 1924 (Norton 3)
  • Norton, Col. E.F. et al., The Fight for Everest 1924, London: Edward Arnold & Co., 1925 (Norton 4)
  • Odell, N.E., “The Last Climb”, Alpine Journal., 36, 229, 1924 (Odell)
  • Somervell, T.H., After Everest: The Experiences of a Mountaineer and Medical Missionary, London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1936 (Somervell)
  • Abschrift der Logbücher aus Lager III und IV 1924; Royal Geographical Society London Files Box 41/3