June 7, 1924

Table of Contents
Introduction
June 5, 1924
June 6, 1924
June 7, 1924
– Comments on Mallory’s note to Noel
– Comments on Mallory’s note to Odell
– Some notes on the oxygen question
– Some notes on Mallory’s equipment list – The sleeping bag issue		June 8, 1924
– Mallory & Irvine’s ascent to 8500 m/28,000 ft.
– Mallory & Irvine’s ascent beyond 8500 m/28,000 ft.
– Climbing the Second Step – Is the Mystery finally solved?
Beyond the Second Step – Hypotheses & Considerations
Where is Andrew Irvine?
Conclusions
Expedition Waste
  • Mallory & Irvine + 4 porters from C 5 to C 6, “going exceedingly strong with oxygen” (Norton 1, p. 216, quoting porters). From comparison with previous ascent times and returning times of the porters (see below) Mallory & Irvine must have reached C 6 between noon and 1 p.m. at the latest.
  • Odell + 2 porters from C 4 to C5, starting 10 a.m. (C4 diary; Norton 1, p. 222), on way up finds oxygen set without mouthpiece, carries it up to C 5 (Norton 4, p. 126; in this account, p. 127, Odell says that only one porter, Nima, had accompanied him; C4 diary also stated only 1 porter).

His comment, ”I had expected on my way up to Camp V to find a spare oxygen breathing set that had been left there earlier” (Norton 4, p. 126), indicates that it was not an abandoned set from Mallory & Irvine’s party, but from a climb before June 6th. As Mallory & Bruce’s party did not carry oxygen on June 1st, it could only have been the set Mallory & Odell had taken up when meeting Norton & Somervell on their return from the mountain on June 4th.

Shortly after Odell’s arrival, the 4 porters of Mallory’s party return to C 5 (Norton 3, frontispiece, indicates at about 3 p.m.) and later to C4, arriving there 5 p.m. (C3 & C4 diaries), bringing down two notes:

Dear Noel,
We’ll probably start early to-morrow (8th) in order to have clear weather. It won’t be too early to start looking out for us either crossing the rockband under the pyramid or going up skyline at 8 p.m. [sic]
   Yours ever, G. Mallory
Dear Odell,
We’re awfully sorry to have left things in such a mess – our Unna cooker rolled down the slope at the last moment.
Be sure of getting back to IV to-morrow in time to evacuate before dark as I hope to.
In the tent I must have left a compass – for the Lord’s sake rescue it, we are without.
To here on 90 atmospheres for the 2 days – so we’ll probably go on 2 cylinders – but it’s a bloody load for climbing.
Perfect weather for the job!
   Yours ever
   G. Mallory

~~~

  • Noel + 4 porters from C 3 to C 4, arriving 4:30 p.m., back to C 3 5:30 p.m. (C4 diary)

Weather that day: “That evening […] the weather seemed most promising. […] Even the wind did not attain its usual boisterous degree.” (Norton 4, pp. 127f.)