Eiger \u2013 Querg\u00e4nge und Abgr\u00fcnde<\/strong> Berg steil! \u2013 Meine Erstbegehungen zum Nachklettern<\/strong> Passion Eiger \u2013 Legend\u00e4re Routen damals und heute<\/strong> Nur der Berg ist mein Boss \u2013 Das Leben des S\u00fcdtiroler Extremkletterers und Extreme Eiger \u2013 The Race to climb the direct route up the North Face of the Eiger<\/strong> Gerfried G\u00f6schl \u2013 Spuren f\u00fcr die Ewigkeit<\/strong> Nanga Parbat 1970 \u2013 Tragedy and Controversy<\/strong> Austria 8000 \u2013 \u00d6sterreichische Alpinisten auf den h\u00f6chsten Gipfeln der Welt<\/strong> Nanga Parbat \u2013 Das Drama 1970 und die Kontroverse. Wie die Messner-Trag\u00f6die zum gr\u00f6\u00dften Streitfall in der Alpingeschichte wurde<\/strong> Tatort Mount Everest: Der Fall Mallory \u2013 Neue Fakten und Hintergr\u00fcnde<\/strong> Broad Peak, Traum und Albtraum \u2013 Auf den Spuren von Hermann Buhls letzter Expedition<\/strong> Mount Everest-Spurensuche in eisigen H\u00f6hen<\/strong> Everest \u2013 G\u00f6ttinmutter der Erde<\/strong> Detectives on Everest \u2013 The 2001 Mallory & Irvine Research Expedition<\/strong> Ghosts of Everest \u2013 The Search for Mallory & Irvine<\/strong> Zwei auf dem Everest \u2013 Ein gemeinsamer Traum<\/strong> Winter 8000<\/strong> Besser Tiger als Schaf \u2013 Alex MacIntyre und die Geburt des Alpinstils im Himalaya<\/strong> Eiger Extrem \u2013 Das Rennen um die Nordwand-Direttissima<\/strong> Courage \u2013 Im Schatten des Nanga Parbat 1934. Die wahre Geschichte des Bergsteigers Hermann Hoerlin und einer lebensgef\u00e4hrlichen Liebe.<\/strong> Herausforderung 8000er. Die h\u00f6chsten Berge der Welt im 21. Jahrhundert \u2013 Menschen, Mythen, Meilensteine<\/strong> Illustrierter Atlas des Himalaya<\/strong> Because of the numbers of published articles this selection will only be occasionally updated in the future. For example, since 2021 articles of mine on mountaineering history have regularly appeared in the German climbing magazine Der Bergsteiger<\/strong>, like<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n \u201eDas Jahrhundert-R\u00e4tsel\u201c<\/strong> (100th anniversary of Mallory & Irvine on Everest) In addition I have regularly published essays in the annual journal of the German, Austrian & \u201eSo einfach ist das. Was Zolt\u00e1n Demj\u00e1n am Dhaulagiri \u00fcber das innere Gef\u00fchl lernte\u201c<\/strong> \u201eWeil er f\u00fcr mich da ist: Everest \u2013 ein pers\u00f6nlicher Pilgerweg\u201c<\/strong> \u201eDer geborene Gigant: Einblicke in eine lebendige Berglandschaft\u201c<\/strong> (Ortler) und \u201eWelten in einem Tal: Wanderungen in Ulten\u201c<\/strong> \u201eThe Many Faces of one Face \u2013 The Eiger Direct, Fifty Years on\u201c<\/strong> \u201eRiss in der Geschichte\u201c<\/strong> \u201eDas geheime Leben eines Steuerbeamten\u201c<\/strong> \u201eWir z\u00e4hlen m\u00f6glicherweise zu den erfolgreichsten erfolglosen Seilschaften der Welt\u201c<\/strong> and<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n \u201eKreativit\u00e4t am Berg \u2013 Ein Portr\u00e4t des K\u00fcnstlers und Alpinisten Andy Parkin\u201c<\/strong> \u201eDer Mythos Eiger und seine bewegte Geschichte \u2013 Wand der W\u00e4nde ohne Ende\u201c,<\/strong> \u201eDirettissima-Geschichte \u2013 Gestern, heute, morgen\u201c<\/strong>, \u201eTatort Mount Everest \u2013 Der Fall Mallory\u201c<\/strong> \u201eWie m\u00fcde darf ein Held sein?\u201c (The myth of Austrian climbing legend Hermann Buhl)<\/strong>, \u201eAlpinismus reloaded\u201c (revisionism in climbing history)<\/strong>, \u201e50 Jahre Broad Peak\u201c <\/strong>, \u201eCiao Markus\u201c (remembering Markus Kronthaler)<\/strong>, \u201eBroad Peak 1957\/2007\u201c<\/strong> \u201eJohn Harlins gr\u00f6\u00dftes Kunstwerk\u201c (Eiger Direct 40 years after)<\/strong> \u201eDeadly Ascent\u201c (Reinhold Messner and the Nanga Parbat controversy 1970)<\/strong> \u201eK2-Der Berg der Berge\u201c (50th anniversary of the first ascent)<\/strong> \u201eAus dem Mythos wird ein Mensch\u201c (Mallory)<\/strong>, \u201eNationalstolz auf h\u00f6chster Ebene\u201c (Everest, politics and nationalism)<\/strong>, \u201eMallory\u2019s letztes Geheimnis\u201c (Xu Jing and the discovery of Andrew Irvine 1960),<\/strong> \u201eThe English dead\u201c<\/strong>, \u201eAlpiner Ballermann am Berg der Berge\u201c (50th anniversary of the first ascent)<\/strong>, \u201eDas h\u00f6chste Fundb\u00fcro der Welt\u201c<\/strong>, \u201eDem Tod von der Schippe geklaut\u201c (with C. Kratzer und J. Norton)<\/strong>, \u201eNeue Expedition-Alte R\u00e4tsel\u201c (with C. Kratzer)<\/strong>, \u201eDiscovery on Mount Everest\u201c (with L.A. Johnson)<\/strong>, \u201eDer Ortler \u2013 S\u00fcdtirols K\u00f6nig der Berge\u201c<\/strong> \u201eMatterhorn \u2013 Vom Mythos zur Marke\u201c<\/strong> \u201ePeter Ressmann \u2013 Eine Widmung\u201c<\/strong> \u201eDas letzte Wort hat der Berg \u2013 Matterhorn-Nordwand\u201c<\/strong> \u201eDrei Zinnen \u2013 Grenzen der Felskletterei\u201c<\/strong> \u201eZwischen Licht und Schatten \u2013 Piz Badile-Nordostwand\u201c<\/strong>, \u201eDer zerfallende Berg \u2013 Die Petit Dru-Nordwand\u201c<\/strong>, \u201eEiger-Nordwand \u2013 Die Wand der W\u00e4nde\u201c<\/strong>, \u201eDie Suche der Sherpas\u201c<\/strong>, \u201eErster auf dem Everest\u201c (Die Suche nach Andrew Irvine)<\/strong> \u201eGrab in eisigen H\u00f6hen\u201c (Bergung von Markus Kronthaler)<\/strong>, \u201eBroad Peak 2006 \u2013 Auf den Spuren von Hermann Buhl\u201c<\/strong>, \u201eFredrik Str\u00e4ng och Mysteriet pa Everest\u201c (Fredrik Str\u00e4ng and the mystery on Everest)<\/strong> \u201eDie Marmormumie vom Mount Everest\u201c<\/strong>, ZDF, January 2000<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u201eWelt der Wunder Spezial \u2013 Mount Everest\u201c<\/strong>, Pro7, November 2001<\/p>\n\n\n\n In addition work on several short features about Everest\/Mallory & Irvinefor TV stations (HR, NDR, 3Sat, Deutsche Welle TV, XXP, among others) and radio stations (NDR, Radio Bremen, DeutschlandRadio, HR, SWR, BR, among others)<\/p>\n\n\n\n Over 100 lectures and book readings about Mount Everest\/Mallory & Irvine in Germany, Switzerland, France, England, Scotland, and USA<\/p>\n\n\n\n Curator for the history of Everest in connection with \u201eYadegar Asisis Everest \u2013 Erlebnis zwischen Expedition und Tradition\u201c<\/strong>, asisi Panometer Leipzig, 28 January \u2013 3 June, 2012<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u201eDetectives on Everest\u201c<\/strong>, (with A. Schmidt-Stegmaier)<\/p>\n\n\n\n \u201eDetectives on Everest \u2013 Funde der Mallory- & Irvine-Suchexpedition 2001\u201c<\/strong>, Curator for the history of Everest<\/strong> (with A. Schmidt-Stegmaier) in connection with \u201eYadegar Asisis 8848 Everest 360\u00b0\u201c, Gasometer S\u00fcd-Ost, Leipzig, 24 May \u2013 31 December, 2003 [extended to 2005] \u2013 www.8848everest.de<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n Kamera Alpin in Gold<\/strong>, for documentary Grand Prix Bansko Mountain Film Festival<\/strong>, Short-listed for \u201eDeutschen Jugendliteraturpreis 2007\u201c<\/strong> Short-listed for \u201eBoardman & Tasker Award for Mountaineering Literature\u201c<\/strong> (GB) for Ghosts of Everest<\/em> (1999), Detectives on Everest<\/em> (2002) and Nanga Parbat 1970<\/em> (with R. Sale, 2014)<\/p>\n\n\n\n The American Alpine Club<\/strong> ranked \u201eGhosts of Everest\u201c among the 52 most influential books in its 100 years. (American Alpine Journal, 2002)<\/p>\n\n\n\n Italian Literature Award \u201eGiuseppe Mazzotti\u201c<\/strong> for Le Ombre dell\u2018 Everest (Italian edition of Ghosts of Everest<\/em>), 2000<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Books As author, co-author, editor and book designer: Eiger \u2013 Querg\u00e4nge und Abgr\u00fcnde(Rainer Rettner, book design by Jochen Hemmleb)Rimpar: Rainer Rettner self-publishing, 2022 Berg steil! \u2013 Meine Erstbegehungen zum Nachklettern(Christoph Hainz, with Jochen Hemmleb)Bozen: Raetia, 2022 Passion Eiger \u2013 Legend\u00e4re Routen damals und heute(Roger Sch\u00e4li, with Rainer Rettner & Jochen… Continue Reading References<\/span><\/i><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":221,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":{"0":"post-669","1":"page","2":"type-page","3":"status-publish","4":"has-post-thumbnail","5":"hentry","6":"h-entry","8":"h-as-page"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/669","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=669"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/669\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":924,"href":"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/669\/revisions\/924"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/221"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=669"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
(Rainer Rettner, book design by Jochen Hemmleb)
Rimpar: Rainer Rettner self-publishing, 2022<\/p>\n\n\n\n
(Christoph Hainz, with Jochen Hemmleb)
Bozen: Raetia, 2022<\/p>\n\n\n\n
(Roger Sch\u00e4li, with Rainer Rettner & Jochen Hemmleb)
Ziegelbr\u00fccke: AS Verlag, 2020<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Bergf\u00fchrers<\/strong>
(Christoph Hainz, with Jochen Hemmleb)
Innsbruck: Tyrolia-Verlag, 2019<\/p>\n\n\n\n
(Peter & Leni Gillman, with Jochen Hemmleb)
London: Simon & Schuster, 2015<\/p>\n\n\n\n
(with Heike G\u00f6schl-Gr\u00fcnwald)
Wien: Egoth-Verlag, 2014<\/p>\n\n\n\n
(with Richard Sale)
Ross-on-Wye: Carreg, 2014<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Innsbruck: Tyrolia-Verlag 2013<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Innsbruck: Tyrolia-Verlag, 2010<\/p>\n\n\n\n
M\u00fcnchen: F.A. Herbig\/Terra Magica, 2009<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Innsbruck: Tyrolia-Verlag, 2007<\/p>\n\n\n\n
(author: Maja Nielsen, consultant: Jochen Hemmleb)
Hildesheim: Gerstenberg-Verlag, 2006<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Z\u00fcrich: AS-Verlag, 2002<\/p>\n\n\n\n
(with mit E.R. Simonson),
Seattle (USA): The Mountaineers Books, 2002<\/p>\n\n\n\n
(with L.A. Johnson, E.R. Simonson, as told to W.E. Nothdurft),
Seattle (USA): The Mountaineers Books, 1999<\/p>\n\n\n\nAs translator:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
(authors: Uma Krishnaswami & Christopher Corr; translation and editing: Jochen Hemmleb)
Innsbruck: Tyrolia-Verlag, 2023<\/p>\n\n\n\n
(author: Bernadette McDonald; translation and editing: Jochen Hemmleb)
Ziegelbr\u00fccke: AS Verlag, 2022<\/p>\n\n\n\n
(author: John Porter; translation and editing: Jochen Hemmleb)
Innsbruck: Tyrolia-Verlag, 2016<\/p>\n\n\n\n
(authors: Peter & Leni Gillman, translation and editing: Jochen Hemmleb)
Z\u00fcrich: AS-Verlag, 2016<\/p>\n\n\n\n
(author: Bettina Hoerlin, translation and editing: Jochen Hemmleb)
Innsbruck: Tyrolia-Verlag 2014<\/p>\n\n\n\n
(authors: Richard Sale, George Rodway & Eberhard Jurgalski, editor and translator: Jochen Hemmleb)
Innsbruck: Tyrolia-Verlag 2013<\/p>\n\n\n\n
(authors: David Zurick & Julsun Pacheco, translation and editing: Jochen Hemmleb)
Z\u00fcrich: AS-Verlag, 2007<\/p>\n\n\n\nSelected articles<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Der Bergsteiger, 06\/2024<\/p>\n\n\n\n
South Tyrolean Alpine Club (Alpenvereinsjahrbuch des DAV, \u00d6AV & AVS):<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n
Alpenvereinsjahrbuch BERG 2024<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Alpenvereinsjahrbuch BERG 2023<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Alpenvereinsjahrbuch BERG 2022<\/p>\n\n\n\n
ALPINIST 56, Winter 2016<\/p>\n\n\n\n
(revision of the John Harlin Climb 50 years after)
Der Bergsteiger, 3\/2016<\/p>\n\n\n\n
(portrait of British climber extraordinaire Mick Fowler)
Alpenvereinsjahrbuch BERG 2016<\/p>\n\n\n\n
(Interview with Sandy Allan, first ascensionist of Nanga Parbat\u2018s Mazeno Ridge)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Alpenvereinsjahrbuch BERG 2015<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Alpin, 8\/2013<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Alpin, 2\/2013<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Der Bergsteiger, 1\/2010<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung, 21 June 2007<\/p>\n\n\n\n
BERGE, 5\/2007<\/p>\n\n\n\n
DAV Panorama, 4\/2007<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Alpin, 4\/2007<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Ein Gipfel, zwei Zeiten, zwei Reisen (One summit, two epochs, two journeys)<\/em>
Salzburger Alpenvereinsnachrichten, 53, 205 (April-Juni 2007)
und Innsbruck Alpin, 3\/2007<\/p>\n\n\n\n
BERGE, 5\/2006<\/p>\n\n\n\n
research for article by P. Gillman in The Sunday Times Magazine, 25 April 2004<\/p>\n\n\n\n
BERGE, 4\/2004<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung, 28 May 2003<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Baseler Magazin, 21, 24 May 2003<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Alpin, May 2003<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Geographical, May 2003<\/p>\n\n\n\n
BERGE, 3\/2003<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Alpin, November 2001<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Alpin, August 2001<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Alpin, March 2001<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Climbing, 188, September 1999<\/p>\n\n\n\nTV Productions<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Script and directing<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Servus TV, November 2016<\/p>\n\n\n\nDirecting and editing assistance, script and consulting<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Servus TV, July 2015<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Servus TV, June 2013<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Servus TV, November 2012<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Servus TV, October 2012<\/p>\n\n\n\nScript and consulting<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Servus TV, September 2012<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Servus TV, February 2012<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Servus TV, February 2012<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Servus TV, February 2012<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Universum \u2013 ORF2, December 2010<\/p>\n\n\n\nConsulting<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Pro7, January 2008<\/p>\n\n\n\n
smac-media\/BR<\/p>\n\n\n\n
TV 4 AB (Schweden), March 2007<\/p>\n\n\n\nExhibitions<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Consulting<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Washington State History Museum, Tacoma (USA), 7 September, 2002 \u2013 6 April, 2003<\/p>\n\n\n\nExhibition manager<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Palais am Festungsgraben, Berlin, 1 June \u2013 31 August 2003
www.detectives-on-everest.de<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\nAwards<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
24. Internationales Berg + Abenteuer Filmfestival Graz, Austria, 2012<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\u201ePetit Dru-Nordwand \u2013 Der zerfallene Berg\u201c<\/em>
(Servus TV, February 2012)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Bulgarien, for documentary \u201eErster auf dem Everest\u201c<\/em> (ORF Universum, 2011)
Script: Jochen Hemmleb & Gerald Salmina<\/p>\n\n\n\n
as consultant for Spurensuche in Eisigen H\u00f6hen<\/em> by Maja Nielsen<\/p>\n\n\n\n