{"id":799,"date":"2024-05-14T22:24:53","date_gmt":"2024-05-14T22:24:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/?page_id=799"},"modified":"2024-06-06T16:14:25","modified_gmt":"2024-06-06T16:14:25","slug":"june-7-1924","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/en\/mallory-and-irvine\/june-7-1924\/","title":{"rendered":"June 7, 1924"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<figure class=\"wp-block-table is-style-regular has-small-font-size\"><table class=\"has-background\" style=\"background-color:#fbfbfb\"><tbody><tr><td colspan=\"2\"><strong>Table of Contents<\/strong><\/td><\/tr><tr><td><a href=\"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/en\/mallory-and-irvine\/\">Introduction<\/a><br><a href=\"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/en\/mallory-and-irvine\/june-5-1924\/\">June 5, 1924<\/a><br><a href=\"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/en\/mallory-and-irvine\/june-6-1924\/\">June 6, 1924<\/a><br><a href=\"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/en\/mallory-and-irvine\/june-7-1924\/\">June 7, 1924<\/a><br> <em>&#8211; <a href=\"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/en\/mallory-and-irvine\/june-7-1924\/comments-on-mallorys-note-to-noel\/\">Comments on Mallory\u2019s note to Noel<\/a><\/em><br> <em>&#8211; <a href=\"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/en\/mallory-and-irvine\/june-7-1924\/comments-on-mallorys-note-to-odell\/\">Comments on Mallory\u2019s note to Odell<\/a><\/em><br> <em>&#8211; <a href=\"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/en\/mallory-and-irvine\/june-7-1924\/some-notes-on-the-oxygen-question\/\">Some notes on the oxygen question<\/a><\/em><br> <em>&#8211; <a href=\"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/en\/mallory-and-irvine\/june-7-1924\/some-notes-on-mallorys-equipment-list-the-sleeping-bag-issue\/\">Some notes on Mallory\u2019s equipment list \u2013 The sleeping bag issue<\/a><\/em><\/td><td><a href=\"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/en\/mallory-and-irvine\/june-8-1924\/\">June 8, 1924<\/a><br>  <em>&#8211; <a href=\"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/en\/mallory-and-irvine\/june-8-1924\/mallory-irvines-ascent-to-8500-m-28000-ft\/\">Mallory &amp; Irvine\u2019s ascent to 8500 m\/28,000 ft.<\/a><\/em><br>  <em>&#8211; <a href=\"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/en\/mallory-and-irvine\/june-8-1924\/mallory-irvines-ascent-beyond-8500-m-28000-ft\/\">Mallory &amp; Irvine\u2019s ascent beyond 8500 m\/28,000 ft.<\/a><\/em><br>  <em>&#8211; <a href=\"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/en\/mallory-and-irvine\/june-8-1924\/climbing-the-second-step-is-the-mystery-finally-solved\/\">Climbing the Second Step \u2013 Is the Mystery finally solved?<\/a><\/em><br><a href=\"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/en\/mallory-and-irvine\/beyond-the-second-step-hypotheses-considerations\/\">Beyond the Second Step \u2013 Hypotheses &amp; Considerations<\/a><br><a href=\"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/en\/mallory-and-irvine\/where-is-andrew-irvine\/\">Where is Andrew Irvine?<\/a><br><a href=\"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/en\/mallory-and-irvine\/conclusions\/\">Conclusions<\/a><br><a href=\"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/en\/mallory-and-irvine\/expedition-waste\/\">Expedition Waste<\/a><\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Mallory &amp; Irvine + 4 porters from C 5 to C 6<\/strong>, <em>\u201cgoing exceedingly strong with oxygen\u201d<\/em> (Norton 1, p. 216, quoting porters). From comparison with previous ascent times and returning times of the porters (see below) Mallory &amp; Irvine must have reached C 6 between noon and 1 p.m. at the latest.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Odell + 2 porters from C 4 to C5, starting 10 a.m.<\/strong> (C4 diary; Norton 1, p. 222), on way up finds oxygen set without mouthpiece, carries it up to C 5 (Norton 4, p. 126; in this account, p. 127, Odell says that only one porter, Nima, had accompanied him; C4 diary also stated only 1 porter).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>His comment,&nbsp;<em>\u201dI had expected on my way up to Camp V to find a spare oxygen breathing set that had been left there earlier\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;(Norton 4, p. 126), indicates that it was not an abandoned set from Mallory &amp; Irvine\u2019s party, but from a climb before June 6th. As Mallory &amp; Bruce\u2019s party did not carry oxygen on June 1st, it could only have been the set Mallory &amp; Odell had taken up when meeting Norton &amp; Somervell on their return from the mountain on June 4th.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Shortly after Odell\u2019s arrival, the 4 porters of Mallory\u2019s party return to C 5&nbsp;(Norton 3, frontispiece, indicates at about 3 p.m.)&nbsp;and later to C4, arriving there 5 p.m.&nbsp;(C3 &amp; C4 diaries), bringing down two notes:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<pre class=\"wp-block-code\"><code>Dear Noel,\nWe\u2019ll probably start early to-morrow (8th) in order to have clear weather. It won\u2019t be too early to start looking out for us either crossing the rockband under the pyramid or going up skyline at 8 p.m. &#91;sic]\n   Yours ever, G. Mallory<\/code><\/pre>\n\n\n\n<pre class=\"wp-block-code\"><code>Dear Odell,\nWe\u2019re awfully sorry to have left things in such a mess \u2013 our Unna cooker rolled down the slope at the last moment.\nBe sure of getting back to IV to-morrow in time to evacuate before dark as I hope to.\nIn the tent I must have left a compass \u2013 for the Lord\u2019s sake rescue it, we are without.\nTo here on 90 atmospheres for the 2 days \u2013 so we\u2019ll probably go on 2 cylinders \u2013 but it\u2019s a bloody load for climbing.\nPerfect weather for the job!\n   Yours ever\n&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;G. Mallory<\/code><\/pre>\n\n\n\n<p>~~~<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Noel + 4 porters from C 3 to C 4, arriving 4:30 p.m., back to C 3 5:30 p.m. (C4 diary)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Weather that day:&nbsp;<em>\u201cThat evening [\u2026] the weather seemed most promising. [\u2026] Even the wind did not attain its usual boisterous degree.\u201d<\/em>&nbsp;(Norton 4, pp. 127f.)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Table of Contents IntroductionJune 5, 1924June 6, 1924June 7, 1924 &#8211; Comments on Mallory\u2019s note to Noel &#8211; Comments on Mallory\u2019s note to Odell &#8211; Some notes on the oxygen question &#8211; Some notes on Mallory\u2019s equipment list \u2013 The sleeping bag issue June 8, 1924 &#8211; Mallory &amp; Irvine\u2019s&hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/en\/mallory-and-irvine\/june-7-1924\/\" class=\"more-link read-more\" rel=\"bookmark\">Continue Reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">June 7, 1924<\/span><i class=\"fa fa-arrow-right\"><\/i><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":678,"menu_order":3,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":{"0":"post-799","1":"page","2":"type-page","3":"status-publish","4":"hentry","5":"h-entry","7":"h-as-page"},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/799","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=799"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/799\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":899,"href":"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/799\/revisions\/899"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/678"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/jochenhemmleb.com\/web\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=799"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}