Credentials
Books
Gerfried Göschl - Spuren für die Ewigkeit
(with Heike Göschl-Grünwald)
Wien: Egoth-Verlag, 2014
Nanga Parbat 1970 - Tragedy and Controversy
(with Richard Sale)
Ross-on-Wye: Carreg, 2014
Courage - Im Schatten des Nanga Parbat 1934. Die wahre Geschichte des Bergsteigers Hermann Hoerlin und einer lebensgefährlichen Liebe.
(by Bettina Hoerlin, translated into German and edited by Jochen Hemmleb)
Innsbruck: Tyrolia-Verlag 2014
Herausforderung 8000er. Die höchsten Berge der Welt im 21. Jahrhundert – Menschen, Mythen, Meilensteine
(By Richard Sale, George Rodway & Eberhard Jurgalski, translated into German and edited by Jochen Hemmleb)
Innsbruck: Tyrolia-Verlag 2013
Austria 8000 – Österreichische Alpinisten auf den höchsten Gipfeln der Welt
Innsbruck: Tyrolia-Verlag 2013
Nanga Parbat – Das Drama 1970 und die Kontroverse. Wie die Messner-Tragödie zum größten Streitfall in der Alpingeschichte wurde
Innsbruck: Tyrolia-Verlag, 2010
Tatort Mount Everest: Der Fall Mallory – Neue Fakten und Hintergründe
München: F.A. Herbig/Terra Magica, 2009
Broad Peak, Traum und Albtraum - Auf den Spuren von Hermann Buhls letzter Expedition
Innsbruck: Tyrolia-Verlag, 2007
Mount Everest-Spurensuche in eisigen Höhen
(Author: Maja Nielsen, Fachliche Beratung: Jochen Hemmleb)
Hildesheim: Gerstenberg-Verlag, 2006
Everest - Göttinmutter der Erde (German language)
Zürich: AS-Verlag, 2002
Detectives on Everest - The 2001 Mallory & Irvine Research Expedition
(with E.R. Simonson),
Seattle (USA): The Mountaineers Books, 2002
Ghosts of Everest - The Search for Mallory & Irvine
(with L.A. Johnson, E.R. Simonson and W.E. Nothdurft)
Seattle (USA): The Mountaineers Books, 1999
Magazine Articles
"Wir zählen möglicherweise zu den erfolgreichsten erfolglosen Seilschaften der Welt"
(interview with Sandy Allan, first ascensionist of Nanga Parbat's Mazeno Ridge) and
"Kreativität am Berg - Ein Porträt des Künstlers und Alpinisten Andy Parkin"
(portrait of artist and climber Andy Parkin)
Alpenvereinsjahrbuch BERG 2015
"Der Mythos Eiger und seine bewegte Geschichte – Wand der Wände ohne Ende"
(The Eiger Myth),
Alpin, 8/2013
"Direttissima-Geschichte – Gestern, heute, morgen" (A history of the Direttissima),
Alpin, 2/2013
"Tatort Mount Everest – Der Fall Mallory" (Crime Scene Mount Everest – The Mallory Case),
Der Bergsteiger, 1/2010
"Wie müde darf ein Held sein?" (On the trails of history on Broad Peak or: the myth of Hermann Buhl),
Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung, 21.6.2007
"Alpinismus reloaded" (revisionism in mountaineering history),
Berge, Nr. 5/2007
"50 Jahre Broad Peak" (50th anniversary of Broad Peak's first ascent),
DAV Panorama, 4/2007
"Ciao Markus" (In Memoriam Markus Kronthaler),
Alpin, 4/2007
"Broad Peak 1957/2007" Ein Gipfel, zwei Zeiten, zwei Reisen,
Salzburger Alpenvereinsnachrichten, 53, 205 (April-Juni 2007)
and Innsbruck Alpin, 3/2007
"John Harlins größtes Kunstwerk" (40th anniversary of Eigerwand direttissima)
Berge, Nr. 5/2006
"Deadly Ascent" (Reinhold Messner and the controversy about Nanga Parbat 1970)
Research for article by P. Gillman in The Sunday Times Magazine, April 25, 2004
"K2-Der Berg der Berge" (50th anniversary of K2's first ascent)
Berge (Germany), Nr. 4/2004
"Aus dem Mythos wird ein Mensch" (Mallory),
Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung, 28. Mai 2003
"Nationalstolz auf höchster Ebene" (Everest, politics and nationalism),
Baseler Magazin, 21, 24. Mai 2003
"Mallory's letztes Geheimnis" (Xu Jing and the discovery of Irvine 1960),
Alpin (Germany), Mai 2003
"The English dead",
Geographical, Mai 2003
"Alpiner Ballermann am Berg der Berge" (50th anniversay of Everest's first ascent),
Berge (Germany), Nr. 3/2003
"Das höchste Fundbüro der Welt",
Alpin (Germany), November 2001
"Dem Tod von der Schippe geklaut" ((with C. Kratzer und J. Norton),
Alpin (Germany), August 2001
"Neue Expedition-Alte Rätsel" (with C. Kratzer),
Alpin (Germany), Marz 2001
"Discovery on Mount Everest" (with L.A. Johnson),
Climbing, 188, September 1999
Web Articles
Under new construction
TV productions
Co-Director, co-editor, scriptwriter and consultant for
"Peter Ressmann - Eine Widmung"
Servus TV, June 2013
"Das letzte Wort hat der Berg – Matterhorn-Nordwand"
(The Mountain has the last Word – Matterhorn-Northface),
Servus TV, November 2012
"Drei Zinnen – Grenzen der Felskletterei"
(Tre Cime – Limits of Rockclimbing),
Servus TV, October 2012
Scriptwriter and consultant for
"Zwischen Licht und Schatten – Piz Badile-Nordostwand",
(Between Light and Shadow – Piz Badile-Northeastface)
Servus TV, September 2012
"Der zerfallende Berg – Die Petit Dru-Nordwand",
(The Disintegrating Mountain – The Petit Dru North Face)
Servus TV, February 2012
"Eiger-Nordwand – Die Wand der Wände",
(Eiger North Face – Wall of Walls)
Servus TV, February 2012
"Die Suche der Sherpas",
(The Sherpas’ Quest)
Servus TV, February 2012
"Erster auf dem Everest" (First atop Everest, The Search for Andrew Irvine)
Universum – ORF2, December 2010
Consultant for:
"Grab in eisigen Höhen"
(Grave in icy heights - the recovery of Markus Kronthaler's body from Broad Peak),
Pro7, January 2008
"Broad Peak 2006 - Auf den Spuren von Hermann Buhl"
(Broad Peak 2006 - On the trail of Hermann Buhl),
smac-media/BR (airdate yet to be decided)
"Fredrik Sträng och Mysteriet pa Everest" (Fredrik Sträng and the mystery on Everest)
TV 4 AB (Schweden), March 2007
"Die Marmormumie vom Mount Everest", ZDF, Januar 2000
"Welt der Wunder Spezial - Mount Everest", Pro7, November 2001
Numerous features for TV (including HR, NDR, 3Sat, Deutsche Welle TV, XXP) and radio (including NDR, Radio Bremen, DeutschlandRadio, HR, SWR, BR) about Mount Everest/Mallory & Irvine.
Some 70 lectures about Mallory & Irvine/Everest in Germany, Switzerland, England, Scotland, and USA
Museum exhibits
Curator for historical section of "Yadegar Asisis Everest – Erlebnis zwischen Expedition und Tradition" (Experience between Expedition and Tradition), asisi Panometer Leipzig, 1/28 – 6/3/2012
Consultant for "Detectives on Everest", Washington State History Museum, Tacoma (USA), 9/7/2002 - 4/6/2003
Curator (with A. Schmidt-Stegmaier) for "Detectives on Everest - Funde der Mallory- & Irvine-Suchexpedition 2001", Palais am Festungsgraben, Berlin, 6/1 - 8/31/2003 - www.detectives-on-everest.de
Curator for historical section (with A. Schmidt-Stegmaier) of "Yadegar Asisis 8848 Everest 360°", Gasometer Süd-Ost, Leipzig, 5/24 - 12/31/2003 [Prolonged until 2005] - www.8848everest.de
Awards
Kamera Alpin in Gold, 24. International Mountain + Adventure Filmfestival Graz, Austria, for documentary „Petit Dru-Nordwand – Der zerfallene Berg“ ("Petit Dru-Northface – The disintegrating Mountain", Servus TV, Februar 2012)
Grand Prix Bansko Mountain Film Festival, Bulgaria, for documentary „Erster auf dem Everest“ (First on Everest).
Skript: Jochen Hemmleb & Gerald Salmina
Shortlisted for the "German Youth Literature Award" (non-fiction)
for consulting work for Spurensuche in eisigen Höhen (by Maja Nielsen)
Shortlisted for the "Boardman & Tasker Award for Mountaineering Literature" (GB): Ghosts of Everest (1999) and Detectives on Everest (2002) and Nanga Parbat 1970 (2014)
The American Alpine Club rated "Ghosts of Everest" among the 52 most influential books of its first 100 years: "Four or five books describe aspects of the Mallory discovery, but this one by the expedition's originators is the most thorough in its combination of historical perspective, first hand experience, and insight. It's also beautifully presented. "(American Alpine Journal, 2002)
Italian literature award "Giuseppe Mazzotti" for Le Ombre dell' Everest (Italian edition of Ghosts of Everest)
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